Korean Skincare Routine for Sensitive Skin: What to Cut First

I'm Dr. Hongseok Kim, a board-certified Korean dermatologist with 21 years of practice and the medical director of VOS Dermatology Clinic in Gangnam, Seoul, in front of Dosan Park. At VOS I see every patient myself, from the consultation to the treatment.

A Korean skincare routine for sensitive skin is usually less about adding the next popular ingredient and more about knowing what your skin cannot tolerate. For this video I asked viewers to send me their routines, and I reviewed three of them: one strong, oily skin using high-strength actives, one dry and sensitive skin on prescription retinoids, and one man with a history of eczema who had barely used skincare. This page is based on my YouTube video from March 2026; it summarizes what I explained there for readers abroad, without product brand names. The video above can be watched with translated captions.

Strong skin: high-strength vitamin C and retinal

Short answer: if your skin tolerates them without stinging or redness, you can keep using them; you just don't need every product at once (in the video at 00:48).

The first viewer's skin type was ORNT: oily, resistant, non-pigmented and firm, one of the sturdiest combinations. The routine had a 20% pure vitamin C ampoule, a serum with about 20% niacinamide, a retinal cream at 1000 ppm (0.1%) and rosehip oil. Twenty percent vitamin C is on the irritating side, because most products sit in the 15 to 20% range and a higher concentration usually comes with a lower pH (in the video at 02:04). If there is no stinging, that skin has simply adapted. Niacinamide is not very irritating even at high strength, and it helps control sebum, calm inflammation and support the barrier, including ceramide production (in the video at 02:34).

What I would change is the timing. There is no need for the vitamin C ampoule and the niacinamide serum at the same time; one can go in the morning and one at night. Retinal and other retinoids belong in the evening (in the video at 04:04). If your skin is fully adapted, vitamin C and a retinoid can be used together at night; if it is a little reactive, use vitamin C in the morning and the retinoid at night. The rosehip oil can go if the skin isn't dry; for oily skin it can feel heavy, and a lighter oil such as jojoba is an option (in the video at 04:34).

A Korean skincare routine for sensitive skin starts with what you remove

Short answer: for dry, sensitive skin, first remove what triggers sensitivity, then make sure moisture is sufficient (in the video at 06:05).

The second viewer's type was DSPW: dry, sensitive, pigmented and wrinkle-prone, a pattern where skin is often thin and dries out easily. This skin had adapted to retinoids, so the routine could continue, but I suggested watching for redness (in the video at 07:06). "It doesn't sting" is not the same as "it isn't irritating"; sensitivity can show as redness instead. If redness lingers, reduce the retinoid. I also didn't think a toner was needed, because the serum, cream and oil already covered hydration and niacinamide (in the video at 07:37). Fewer, well-chosen products are the point. One cream in the routine stood out because it highlighted vitamin E, a fat-soluble antioxidant that protects the lipids of the skin barrier (ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids) from oxidation, alongside those barrier lipids themselves (in the video at 08:07).

Tretinoin vs adapalene: do you need to alternate?

Short answer: both are prescription medicines in Korea, and if your skin has adapted, I see no reason to alternate; the third-generation retinoid alone can be used routinely (in the video at 09:38).

The same viewer used tretinoin for anti-aging and switched to adapalene when breakouts appeared. Tretinoin is a first-generation retinoid that acts on all retinoic acid receptor types, while skin mostly has the gamma type (in the video at 10:08). Later generations became more selective. Adapalene, a third-generation topical developed for acne, reduces comedones and helps control both inflamed and non-inflamed acne (in the video at 11:09), and published data also support it for anti-aging. A fourth-generation retinoid is even more selective for the gamma receptor and is considered less irritating. So if you have adapted, using the third-generation option alone every day is reasonable. Always follow the doctor who prescribed it.

Eczema history and dryness after washing: start with the cleanser

Short answer: if your face feels very dry after washing, the cleanser is the first thing to change, followed by a sunscreen that is easier to remove (in the video at 14:29).

The third viewer, a man in his 40s with a history of atopic dermatitis, said his face felt very dry after cleansing and that his nose often broke out. "Sensitive skin" covers a wide range, from healthy skin that is merely reactive to conditions such as seborrheic dermatitis, rosacea, acne or contact dermatitis that need treatment (in the video at 13:13). A past history of eczema usually means a weaker barrier and drier skin, even when it feels normal to him. I suggested switching to a mild, weakly acidic cleanser that leaves no tightness. His sun stick adheres very well, which is its strength, but removing it calls for strong cleansing, and that can make dry, sensitive skin more reactive (in the video at 15:17). A lighter, lotion-type sunscreen that washes off easily is a better match. If redness is the main issue for you, my guide to Korean rosacea treatment explains when care at home is not enough.

Fragrance, ceramides and how heavy to go

Short answer: choose fragrance-free products, look for barrier lipids, and don't jump from nothing to a full routine (in the video at 16:20).

People with an eczema history should avoid fragrance where possible, and hand creams often contain it. Some labels list 26 fragrance allergens by their ingredient names, so a product can contain fragrance even if the word "fragrance" doesn't appear (in the video at 16:52). A lotion with ceramides, cholesterol and fatty acids is a good fit. For someone who has rarely used skincare, a lotion plus a cream will feel heavy; I suggested a hyaluronic acid serum with one of the two, adding moisture step by step (in the video at 17:23).

The skin-type codes in this video come from a 16-type system. At the clinic we read skin traits with VOS Skin MBTI before choosing treatments or products. My video note on why moisturiser can leave you drier and my guide to Korean skin care at a clinic versus at home go further, and our creator experiences at VOS show how visitors combined both.

Results vary from person to person, and the right plan for your skin is decided at an in-person consultation.

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Results, swelling and recovery vary from person to person. This page is general information from VOS Dermatology Clinic based on Dr. Kim's video and does not replace an in-person consultation.